Hermès "Ghillies" Lacing Explained: What It Is and Which Bags Use It
By The Leather Expert · Glossary Entry
Ghillies lacing refers to a crossed leather-lace closure technique, borrowed from traditional Scottish ghillie shoe construction, applied decoratively on select Hermès pieces rather than as a standard catalogue feature.
Where the Term Comes From
Ghillies originates from traditional Scottish outdoor shoe construction, where laces cross over the tongue without conventional eyelets, allowing the shoe to expand and contract comfortably during outdoor wear. Hermès has adapted this crossed-lacing visual technique decoratively into select leather goods.
A technique born for hillsides finds an unlikely home on the flap of a Kelly bag.
Function vs Decoration
On Hermès pieces, Ghillies lacing is primarily decorative rather than functional, referencing the traditional technique's distinctive crossed visual pattern without necessarily serving the original expandable-fit purpose it once had in footwear.
Why It Matters to Buyers
- Signals a genuinely distinctive, craftsmanship-forward detailing choice
- Has appeared on select limited-edition or special Kelly variants historically
- Laced areas may benefit from slightly more careful handling than standard closures
- Worth recognising in resale listings or collector discussions as a specific technique, not a generic "laced" description
Frequently Asked Questions
Ghillies originates from traditional Scottish shoe construction, where crossed lacing without eyelets allowed the shoe to expand and contract for outdoor wear, a technique Hermès has borrowed decoratively.
On Hermès bags, Ghillies lacing is primarily decorative, referencing the traditional technique's visual character rather than serving the original expandable-fit function.
Ghillies lacing has appeared as a limited detailing feature on select Kelly variants and other special-edition pieces, rather than as a standard catalogue feature.
The laced areas may require slightly more careful handling to avoid snagging or loosening the lacing over time compared to standard closures.
